Lakakh

Matt Tidy, Babu Sunuwar and Shalabh in the Zanskar Gorge.

Tsarap Chu and Zanskar

The Tsarap Chu and Zanskar rivers flow through the remote, relatively untouched heart of Ladakh, and offer an impressive 5 to 8 day wilderness kayak experience through breath taking scenery, and gives a unique access to a fascinating ancient culture.

Through the winter months these rivers form the major trade routes for the region when the turbulent waters freeze, and they form a natural highway through the otherwise impenetrable mountains. Due to this, a large number of villages, towns and ancient fortresses and monasteries are still able to flourish, in much the same way they have done for centuries.

The trip starts with a 2 day drive to the High Altitude put in point at Sarchu, before passing 180km on the Tsarap Chu to join the Zanskar river at Padum. From hear the Zanskar flows 120km through one of the most impressive gorges in the world, before it finally joins with the Indus just west of
Leh.

Fresh water pours from a natural spring high up a cliff wall, Zanskar River.

Children in Purne village, Tsarap Chu River

Monestary outside Leh

Walking out of the Tsarap Chu

In August last year, while on our first attempt of the Tsarap Chu river, myself, Ali Donald (Ire), Dave Carroll (Ire), Rosie Cripps (Scot) and Rob Coffey (Ire) were hit by the biggest flood in the region for 30 years.

We came to the conclusion that with the knowledge we had at hand, it was best to abandon our equipment in a cave, and with the bare essential make the 3 day trek, over several passes higher than 4600m (15 000ft), back to the road. Through a harsh mountain landscape, at high altitude, and with no trails to follow, this turned out to be a more challenging adventure than we could have expected.

Dave Carroll navigates his way through the turbulent flood waters.

The team inspect one of the narrows, where the swollen
river is compressed through a 3 meter gap.

After an exhausting day of portaging loaded boats, the team stop to discuss the options.

Rosie, Rob and Dave pack what they can carry, and stash the rest in boats at the back of a cave.

Rob Coffey and Rosie Cripps carrying what they can.

Dave Carrol takes a break to absorb the scenery, on the 1000m climb from Satok village
to cross a 4800m pass.

Ali Donald contemplates what is safer. Cross the
bridge, or get back in the boat?

Ali Donald and Rob Coffey discuss the possibility of having our equipment retrieved with a local monk.

One of the local monks that covered the distance it had taken us 3 days
to do, 4 time in 5 days to retrieve our equipment. Respect!

Sarchu, the tented village at the put in for the Tsarap, where we waited for our boats.

6 days later we got our boats back, and proceeded to re-pack our equipment into them and get back onto the river, which by this time had dropped in level considerably. This was much to the amusement of the five monks who had just spend 4 days retrieving our kit after our first failed attempt!

Ali Donald makes his way back to the put in.

Matt Tidy makes his way through the first narrows, Tsarap Chu.

Babu and Shalabh prepare dinner over the camp fire, Tsarap Chu.

Roll out of bed and into your boat!

Phuktal Gompa seems to grow out of the jagged cliff face.

PHUKTAL GOMPA

One of the highlights of the Tsarap Chu is the majestic monastery of Phuktal, which looks out over the surrounding barren mountain landscape from 200meters up the valley wall. Isolated from the modern world,life here continues much as it has done for the past 800 years. This ancient culture, which has much in common with old Tibet, but has
not suffered the devastation of the Chinese occupation.

It is believed that the first buildings of Phuktal were constructed around 2000 years ago, at the back of a large cave high up the cliff wall, were waters from a natural spring flowed throughout the harsh winter months. It has slowly been added to and adapted over the centuries to the impressive cluster of buildings which now nestle on the jagged valley wall.

Visitors receive a warm welcome, and simple accommodation is on offer in their humble guest house, with traditional Ladakhi food.

Steep, dark staircases weave there way up through the tight collection of buildings.

Young monks. Often the second eldest son from a family is sent away for religious education.

Local resident at Phuktal who prepared food for our group.

A young student peers out over the Tsarap Chu River.

Ali Donald drops into one of the bigger rapids below Phuktal

The ancient village fortress of Purne

Despite the remoteness of the area, there is much activity allong the Tsarap Chu, and many old villages where you can spend the night, and re-stock with supplies.

Matt Tidy approaching the Zanskar Gorge.

Below Padum the Tsarap flows in the Zanskar River, and after passing through a long open valley, drops into the Zansakr Gorge.

The Zanskar Gorge.

After the Zanskar joins the Indus, it is time to get back on the road, and try and hitch back to Leh.

Sometime getting to and from the river with your boat can be more of an adventure than the paddling itself.

The joys of travelling with with a kayak. Babu and Salabh load the boats onto a local school bus.

The road back to Leh. 13 kayaks and 11 people in one car!

Matt Tidy and Babu Sunuwar riding in the back of a truck.

After weeks in the barren mountains it is great to return to the Lush oasis of Leh.

Leh