Across the Himalaya With a Kayak

India 2007 Exhibition

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 15:01:00 +0000

Galleries from our latest trip to India can be viewed at my main web page:

www.paclandphoto.com

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Wed, 03 Oct 2007 19:43:00 +0000

DVD now available

visit http://www.2at.com/ for more imformation

Follow an international team of 6 whitewater kayakers as they embark on a journey of a lifetime. Their challenging attempt to be the first to paddle the length of the PARLUNG TSANGPO river in Tibet takes them deep into the heart of the Himalayas. From there they have to survive an incredible 12 days on the river battling their way through huge whitewater rapids. Friendships, skill and nerves will all be tested to the limit.

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Thu, 25 Jan 2007 10:23:00 +0000

This Blog is set up as a photo gallery from a recent 5 month trip traversing the Himalaya. Various team members joined the trip which started in Ladakh (India), in August 2006, before crossing Nepal and Tibet into the Sichuan province of China.

Thankyou to all the sponsors who supported different members of the team:
Palm Europe / System X / Liquid Logic / HF / Kokatat / FNA Headgear / Sweet protection / One Square Meal / Merrell / Fat Face / High Gear / Singapore Airlines

Lakakh

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Thu, 25 Jan 2007 10:06:00 +0000

Matt Tidy, Babu Sunuwar and Shalabh in the Zanskar Gorge.

Tsarap Chu and Zanskar

The Tsarap Chu and Zanskar rivers flow through the remote, relatively untouched heart of Ladakh, and offer an impressive 5 to 8 day wilderness kayak experience through breath taking scenery, and gives a unique access to a fascinating ancient culture.

Through the winter months these rivers form the major trade routes for the region when the turbulent waters freeze, and they form a natural highway through the otherwise impenetrable mountains. Due to this, a large number of villages, towns and ancient fortresses and monasteries are still able to flourish, in much the same way they have done for centuries.

The trip starts with a 2 day drive to the High Altitude put in point at Sarchu, before passing 180km on the Tsarap Chu to join the Zanskar river at Padum. From hear the Zanskar flows 120km through one of the most impressive gorges in the world, before it finally joins with the Indus just west of
Leh.

Fresh water pours from a natural spring high up a cliff wall, Zanskar River.

Children in Purne village, Tsarap Chu River

Monestary outside Leh

Walking out of the Tsarap Chu

In August last year, while on our first attempt of the Tsarap Chu river, myself, Ali Donald (Ire), Dave Carroll (Ire), Rosie Cripps (Scot) and Rob Coffey (Ire) were hit by the biggest flood in the region for 30 years.

We came to the conclusion that with the knowledge we had at hand, it was best to abandon our equipment in a cave, and with the bare essential make the 3 day trek, over several passes higher than 4600m (15 000ft), back to the road. Through a harsh mountain landscape, at high altitude, and with no trails to follow, this turned out to be a more challenging adventure than we could have expected.

Dave Carroll navigates his way through the turbulent flood waters.

The team inspect one of the narrows, where the swollen
river is compressed through a 3 meter gap.

After an exhausting day of portaging loaded boats, the team stop to discuss the options.

Rosie, Rob and Dave pack what they can carry, and stash the rest in boats at the back of a cave.

Rob Coffey and Rosie Cripps carrying what they can.

Dave Carrol takes a break to absorb the scenery, on the 1000m climb from Satok village
to cross a 4800m pass.

Ali Donald contemplates what is safer. Cross the
bridge, or get back in the boat?

Ali Donald and Rob Coffey discuss the possibility of having our equipment retrieved with a local monk.

One of the local monks that covered the distance it had taken us 3 days
to do, 4 time in 5 days to retrieve our equipment. Respect!

Sarchu, the tented village at the put in for the Tsarap, where we waited for our boats.

6 days later we got our boats back, and proceeded to re-pack our equipment into them and get back onto the river, which by this time had dropped in level considerably. This was much to the amusement of the five monks who had just spend 4 days retrieving our kit after our first failed attempt!

Ali Donald makes his way back to the put in.

Matt Tidy makes his way through the first narrows, Tsarap Chu.

Babu and Shalabh prepare dinner over the camp fire, Tsarap Chu.

Roll out of bed and into your boat!

Phuktal Gompa seems to grow out of the jagged cliff face.

PHUKTAL GOMPA

One of the highlights of the Tsarap Chu is the majestic monastery of Phuktal, which looks out over the surrounding barren mountain landscape from 200meters up the valley wall. Isolated from the modern world,life here continues much as it has done for the past 800 years. This ancient culture, which has much in common with old Tibet, but has
not suffered the devastation of the Chinese occupation.

It is believed that the first buildings of Phuktal were constructed around 2000 years ago, at the back of a large cave high up the cliff wall, were waters from a natural spring flowed throughout the harsh winter months. It has slowly been added to and adapted over the centuries to the impressive cluster of buildings which now nestle on the jagged valley wall.

Visitors receive a warm welcome, and simple accommodation is on offer in their humble guest house, with traditional Ladakhi food.

Steep, dark staircases weave there way up through the tight collection of buildings.

Young monks. Often the second eldest son from a family is sent away for religious education.

Local resident at Phuktal who prepared food for our group.

A young student peers out over the Tsarap Chu River.

Ali Donald drops into one of the bigger rapids below Phuktal

The ancient village fortress of Purne

Despite the remoteness of the area, there is much activity allong the Tsarap Chu, and many old villages where you can spend the night, and re-stock with supplies.

Matt Tidy approaching the Zanskar Gorge.

Below Padum the Tsarap flows in the Zanskar River, and after passing through a long open valley, drops into the Zansakr Gorge.

The Zanskar Gorge.

After the Zanskar joins the Indus, it is time to get back on the road, and try and hitch back to Leh.

Sometime getting to and from the river with your boat can be more of an adventure than the paddling itself.

The joys of travelling with with a kayak. Babu and Salabh load the boats onto a local school bus.

The road back to Leh. 13 kayaks and 11 people in one car!

Matt Tidy and Babu Sunuwar riding in the back of a truck.

After weeks in the barren mountains it is great to return to the Lush oasis of Leh.

Leh

Tibet

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Thu, 25 Jan 2007 10:01:00 +0000

The Road to Lhasa

After finishing up in Ladakh, it was time for myself and Matt Tidy to make the long journey through Nepal, and over the Himalayan range to Tibet.

Frozen prayer flags at 5400m, on the road to Lhasa

On the road to Lhasa. Thousands of praywheels set into the walls around Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse.

Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse.

Local Monk in the main square, Lhasa.

A week in Lhasa

We arrive in Lhasa, the ancient capital of Tibet, in the end of September, and met up with the rest of the team. The team for this leg of the trip was Sam Hughes (UK), Matt Tidy (UK), Dave Kwant (NL), Jason Shepherd (USA), Eden Sinclair (NZ), and Zak Shaw (NZ). We spent a week in Lhasa for the team to acclimatize and pepare for the trip.

Tibet has for centuries fascinated travelers as the 'Forbidden Kingdom' on the roof of the world. With regulations concerning tourism and travel easing, the country for the first time is becoming more accessible. With Chinese making huge efforts to construct roads, and recently completing the controversial Qinghai – Lhasa railway line, moving around within the country is becoming much easier. This in itself has raised much debate as to whether visiting Tibet is giving support the China's continuing efforts to control this fascinating country.

The Potala Palace, traditional home to the Dalai Lama, Lhasa.

A pilgrim in the Barkhor square, Lhasa.

A pilgrim makes a circuit of the Jokhang Temple, Lhasa.

Prayer wheels, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa.

Yak butter lamps, Sera Monastery, Lhasa

On the Road

With most of our supplies for the following 5 weeks, we loaded up Windhorse adventures' big green truck, and hit the road heading east.

Prayflags blow in the wind at 5000m on Mi La Pass.

Our Tibetan suport crew. From left: Chembe, Passang and Dawa.

Matt Tidy, Drukla River.

Classic kayaking on the Nyang Chu River.

Nyang Chu River.

What we found was beyond our expectations. Not only was there a huge concentration of classic white water, set in a surprisingly lush forested region of the Tibetan plateau, but despite the best of Chinese efforts to up root Tibetan culture, in many areas the old Tibetan way of life still appears to flourish. But for how long this can remain, with China's ever increasing strong hold on the region, and the huge influx of Han Chinese immigrants, it is hard to predict.

We worked our way east towards the Parlung Tsangpo, exploring rivers on the way.

When the roads get too rough, there is alway a Dong Feng at hand!

Making our way up the Yiong Tsangpo.

The Parlung Tsangpo

The main achievement of our trip was the first full descent of the Parlung Tsangpo River. Form it's high altitude source at Ngan-tso lake, 9 days, 210km and 1600m drop in altitude to where it joins the Po Tsangpo, before cascading into the 'Great Bend' of the Yarlung Tsangpo, the deepest gorge in the world.

First descent, Parlung Tsangpo.

Eden Sinclair shows us how it's done!

Eden Sinclair, first descent, Parlung Tsangpo.

Dave Kwant, First descent, Parlung Tsangpo.

After a month of classic paddling, it was time to make the last long haul 5 day drive, across the last border mountains of Tibet, towards Chengdu in the Sichuan province of China, our final destination.

Dawa watches the world go by in the back of the truck.

Yaks, a high altitude brother to the cow, that cannot live below 2500m.

Nomad children come to check out the strange western people.

Still hungry for adventure, we make a finaly detour to the Dadu river in the Sichuan province of China.

Nepal

noreply@blogger.com (Sam Hughes) — Thu, 25 Jan 2007 09:58:00 +0000

COMING SOON!